Kente Cloth: The battle to maintain royal supremacy

Nothing says Ghanaian like a piece of Kente Cloth and as Ghanaians, we’ve done well to drum that home. So much so, that Kente is thought to be the most widely known cloth produced in Africa - thanks to global patronage. Deemed the highest form of cultural expression in traditional dress, Kente has undoubtedly commanded both respect and adoration amongst indigenous cloths worldwide. Kente continues to stand comfortably, on the distinguished global stage of anthropological textiles as a cloth amongst cloths.

Yet with all the benefits brought by globalisation, one cannot overlook some of the insidious challenges that has come to accompany it so today, let’s talk about the journey of this royal cloth. A journey from sacred to profane; a journey so brazenly entangled in the business of commonising this once sacred cloth, a journey openly endorsing an unspoken dilemma to maintain royal supremacy. For those directly attached to the stool, the need to remain the most sumptuously dressed in the midst of prolific availability [wether it be Kente itself, or its adorning accessories] is one that has largely gone unquestioned. Despite its glaring obviousness, the right to royal supremacy through traditional dress style is usurped day by day, as everyday citizens continue to commonize handwoven Kente Cloth.

So how do those directly attached to the stool maintain royal supremacy in the splendour and pageantry of traditional attire, if their royal robes are now easily accessible to the masses? How does one persevere exclusivity if Kente is now commonly available to the ordinary citizens? Weddings, fashion shoots and the likes, which capture the culture so stunningly, yet contribute to the demand of everyday use, is a conversation we must not shy away from. Whilst it is admirable to see such patronisation of Ghana’s Kente Cloth, one should be mindful of a trend which unconsciously demean and devalues royal attire, because in the quest to showcase cultural pride, we have successfully cheapened a royal cloth in a way that was once unthinkable. Is it then of pure coincidence that those attached to the stool appear to be moving away from handwoven Kente, in favour of its embroidered type?

With embroidered Kente now the most expensive and superior of cloths, it seems royals may have found an alternative to maintaining royal supremacy. Renamed ‘Nwomu Kente’ by Kente Kingdom, this simply translates as needled Kente. Derived from Ghana’s traditional hand embroidery textile medium known as Nwomu, this captures the essence of textile art through a needling or embroidered technique. Yet with royals wearing more and more Nwomu Kente, could this be an attempt to distinguish themselves apart from the masses as woven Kente becomes all too common? If one rule of attire remains that a ‘lesser rank’ must never outdo someone of superior status, how then would royals preserve exclusivity in the pageantry of traditional dress if not to seek an alternative? And since this type of Kente remains the most expensive in Ghanaian society today, it is understandable, and should perhaps come as no surprise, that some royals should seek to inform their superiority in this manner. Whilst the prolific production of handwoven Kente continues, one wonders if ordinary citizen are denying royals the sacred right, privilege and exclusivity to good cloth? I guess the question remains, is handwoven Kente losing its superiority as a royal cloth?

At Kente Kingdom, we think not. Contrary to this, we believe this is precisely where individual weavers and cloth houses come in. Ultimately the burden cannot be placed on the consumer to rectify this. The solution lies at the feet of those responsible for its production. One must ensure royal designs remain just that by safeguarding exclusive cloth designs which cannot be imitated easily. The depth and quality of design may just be the solution because ultimately, that’s the best way to protect royal supremacy. In doing so, one must not just push the boundaries of creativity, one must innovate so as to contribute to the sustenance of royal exclusivity. I guess the mantle lies with us...

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How to spot good quality Kente Cloth

Kente Weaving - Kente Kingdom

What constitutes good quality Kente Cloth? It’s a question we ask our clients often, especially when we want to establish their concept of a job well done. For many, good quality Kente is determined by the thickness of the cloth, how tightly woven, how easily it frays or how rigid the cloth feels in texture. For others, its simply determined by how ancient the cloth design is. For example, many see black and white Kente or the traditional Edwin Asa design as quality Kente, purely because they are considered classic pieces. Others ascribe quality Kente to the ‘cloth type’ or even production process, be it printed, woven or an entirely embroidered cloth (aka Obama Kente) -woven and embroidered Kente being the more superior and therefore most quality of cloths, of course. Irrespective of what constitutes good quality Kente in ones opinion, one thing is evident to the trained eye and that, is the decline of fine workmanship so far as quality control is concerned. When comparing vintage pieces to Kente being churned out today, the quality is apparent. One wonders if the cloth will survive long enough to be handed down to the next generation - as per tradition.

Interestingly, we at Kente Kingdom have found that quality Kente is solely in the eyes of the beholder, the answer is extremely variable depending on whom you’re speaking to. When speaking to those attached to the ‘stool’, you often find references to all the aforementioned, whilst paying particular attention to traditional symbolism. From the general public, we have found the definition of quality Kente to be mostly aesthetical. Yet as a weaving cloth brand, we see things differently and perhaps naturally so. We see quality cloth before we see ‘quality Kente’ and here’s why?

Just like most traditional cloths around the world, What makes Kente ‘Kente’, are the traditional patterns, motifs and woven structures acute to its cultural and societal relevance. Since this would have no bearing on how well a cloth is woven, it is therefore safe to come to the conclusion, that the deciding factor of good quality Kente, is no different to any other traditional cloth woven elsewhere around the world. Essentially, if ‘quality’ is determined by how well a cloth is produced, the assessment of good quality Kente from a weavers perspective is universally simultaneous to any other handwoven cloth, be it Kente or not. The challenge is in the re-education of course, and that’s why at Kente Kingdom, we teach our clients to spot well made handwoven cloth as opposed to quality Kente. Because if the cloth is well woven in the first place, one will ultimately end up with good quality Kente. Whilst unpicking some of these very common misunderstandings, it is important not to simply disregard both current and historically accepted notions of what good quality Kente looks like. This includes:

• Longevity in rigidness and thickness

• Fade resistance

• Friability (with the exception of kente stole traditionally woven with friging at the tips)

• Bobbling (or the lack of)

Yet the most commonly unnoticed by the average Kente wearer, are weave streaks, thread loops and Kente which is woven thick & thin in irregular places. Unless specifically woven that way for design purposes, one should not accept Kente with such flaws as quality Kente. And in an attempt to restore what has historically been described as fine workmanship and magnificent products, we at Kente Kingdom are putting quality control at the forefront of what we do. We, are on a mission to restore Kente’s past glory so if you’re ever unsure, remember that at Kente Kingdom, our cloths are fit for royalty. Remember, to look out for uniformity within your cloth. Hint; if the thick and thin places are a result of changes in weave pattern/ structure, then it’s probably safe to say that it has been woven that way for design purposes. If not, it may well be a poorly woven piece of Kente Cloth. Over time, fade resistance, weave loops and bobbling will also expose the quality of the cloth but flaws such as weave streaks can be spotted at once. It can be spotted at point of purchase so there’s no excuse in buying poor quality Kente Cloth.

Next time you purchase a piece of handwoven Kente, watch out for these weaving faults or better still, take the stress out of it by commissioning your customised Kente cloth from your favourite Kente weaving experts right here at Kente Kingdom. Order you handwoven Kente through our cloth production and Atelier Service COMMISSIONED, or shop ready-to-wear Kente scarf stoles here.

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Celeb Watch: 8 times celebs led the way in traditional kente styling

According to the Ghana Tourism Authority, March is Ghana’s heritage month and at Kente Kingdom, we thought what better way to commemorate this than some style inspiration from your favourite celebrities. So to celebrate our heritage and culture, here are 8 times celebs led the way in traditional Kente styling.

Features, Credits and Sources: Nana Ama McBrown, Bisa KDei, MzVee, Davido, Didier Drogba, Dentaa, Roselyn Ngissah, Prempixel, Ben Anang Photography, Ansah Ken Photography.

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Asante Goldweights: The Kente Kingdom Experience

THE ASANTE KINGDOM AND THE BRITISH EMPIRE - A BRIEF HISTORY

In 1900, Britain invaded the Asante Kingdom and its territories known as the Gold Coast - now present day Ghana. The series of battles known as the ‘Asante Wars’ was centred but not limited to the trade of gold, including access to its trading ports. Known for the abundance of gold on the land, the people of the Ashanti Kingdom were well versed in its trade and often used gold as their primary currency, for trade among western, northern and sub-saharan African regions. In 1874, [in a brutal declaration of imperial power], the British launched a devastating raid on the Asante state capital, Kumasi. Faced with overwhelming odds the Asantehene [Asante King] Kofi Karikari fled, leaving British troops to loot the royal regalia and destroy the town. This was done under the command of Major-General Sir Garnet Wolseley in order to suppress any resurgence of Asante authority. Some of the items listed below are just a few of the ‘spoils’ from the war which give a rare insight on the past glory, historic artistry, as well as the complexity of linguistic interconnections from a sophisticated civilisation - a nation once befittingly known, as the Gold Coast.

Ashanti Goldweights: The Kente Kingdom Experience. Credits: Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Gold Pectoral Disc 1850-74

This gold cast which resembles the bud of the fofoo plant, was worn around the neck by those responsible for the ritual purification of the king’s soul. Known as ‘akrafokonmu’ this translates as the soul disc or soul washers’ badge. Each segment of this gold cast is bordered by a pattern known as the ladder of death - a warning, a symbolic reference and reminder of the need to live a good life in order to preserve ones soul.

Left to right: Fan, Fly Whisk, TWIST Fan 1850-74

Brass Fan: This weight which is shaped like a fan is composed of eight flat spiral or stylised ram’s horns, symbolising strength and sacrifice. The central pyramid sits on a series of concentric circles which speaks of leadership and high status. Fans made of hide, palm leaves, wood and feathers were widely used by the Asante people with elaborate pieces like this one associated with royalty.

Fly Whisk: This brass weight is in the form of a fly whisk used for driving away flies. Asante fly whisks were made from the long coarse hairs of an elephant’s tail and was reserved for royal use or high ranking officials at court. Gold weights made during the 19th century were often made in the form of royal regalia possibly because of the increasing role Asante kings played in regulating and standardising trade.

Twist Fan: This weight with 4 four 8 shaped twists is also shaped like a fan and is decorated with six small flat spirals - a symbol of leadership and honour. Particularly elaborate weights like this were associated with royalty.

Asante Gold Pendant 1850-74

Made from a thin sheet of gold, this gold pendant has been worked by hand from the reverse, in order to create patterns of flowers and leaves. One of 15 pieces within the collection of the V&A deriving from a raid on the Asante state capital in Kumasi.

Asante Gold Pendant 1850-74

A detailed look at the gold pendant showcasing the intricacies of hand craftsmanship from ancient Ghana.

Left to right: Hornbill, Antelope, Box

Hornbill: The hornbill bird is a symbol of male and female fertility. Standing on a seven-stepped pyramid the hornbill is said to be an embodiment of peace; a symbolic reference to a thriving community.

Antelope: The extended horns on this antelope weight is thought to refer to the Asante saying, ‘Had I known’ or ‘If I’d known my horns would grow so long I might not have started’. This is a visual pun on the benefit of hindsight, an appeal for thought before action. This is though to be one of the few pieces bought and not looted, currently in the possession of the V&A (Bought for 4 shillings, April 1874).

Box: The people of the Ashanti Kingdom used gold dust as a primary currency for trade with other communities in western, northern and sub-saharan Africa for centuries. Therefore boxes were commonly used to store gold dust in small potable amounts for the purpose of trade. The spiralling decoration on the side of the box is the ram’s horn which symbolises strength and humility. The indentation on the lid recalls ‘the ladder of death’ a reminder of mortality whilst the finial is the hornbill bird which symbolises a thriving community.

Left to right: Cartridge belt, Shield, Shield, Block 1850 - 74

Brass Cartridge Belt: As powerful traders of gold met with the increasing treat of colonisation, the Asante people imported European firearms to maintain and extend their rule. This brass weight is a tangible reference to the happenings at the time. Made in the form of a miniature gun cartridge belt, it is a modified version of those carried by Europeans at this time which included extra pouches and slits for holding knives. Therefore cartridge belts came to symbolise resourcefulness and readiness [for war]. The gun cartridge-belt of Akowua (a warrior) has never been known to lack bullets’ - a local saying.

Brass Shield: Shaped like an Asante shield, this weight is decorated with nine bells, of a type thought to be used in ceremonial dance. The crossed pattern on the shield is identical to sub divisions applied to traditional kente cloth using a broad toothed comb, before adding further decorative symbols. According to Asante artisans, the crossed pattern nkyimu represents careful separation, skilfulness and precision.

Shield: the second brass weight is also in the form of a dilapidated shield. On three of its edges it is decorated with a band of zigzag lines with the centre hollow and crossed with bands reminiscent of wickerwork. The weight recalls the Asante proverb which says ‘when a shield wears out, the framework still remains’. This means the good deeds of people live after them.

Brass Block: This brass block with geometric patterns is adorned with swastikas which is an ancient symbol carrying various meanings. For the Asante people, it represents the hand of the much-scorned colobus monkey. Typically, a swastika on a gold weight like this warned against distrustfulness and trickery.

Gold Pectoral Disc 1850-74

A front view of the gold pectoral disc from the Ashanti Kingdom of Ghana, 19th century.

Gold Pectoral Disc 1850-74

A detailed side angled view of the pectoral gold disc from the Ashanti Kingdom of Ghana, 19th century.

Final thoughts: Until the lion learns to speak, the story will always glorify the hunter - an African proverb which speaks of the need to tell your own stories. This proverb springs to mind because we believe the time has come to tell our own histories through the lens of the African experience. Therefore this blog piece is written through the perspective of a black British individual of Ghanian descent, documenting the rawness of history in a way which does not seek to present it in a palatable manner for the 21st century consumer of history. But rather, it seeks to present it in the devastating rawness of events that would change the course of history for an entire continent and for generations to come. Yet with this, we are both emboldened and equipped with new knowledge of our past which will serve as fresh avenues for creative exploration here at Kente Kingdom. Such is the undiluted experience of the Asante Goldweights display at the Victoria and Albert Museum. So stay tuned as we explore these historical elements in the innovative concepts that seek to capture past histories in new cloth because Kente Kingdom is no ordinary cloth house. But in the meantime, commission your handwoven Kente Cloth here.

Credits and Mentions: The Victoria and Albert Museum, London

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Ghana Independence Day: Ghana @65

Ghana Independence Day

Celebrating Ghana at 65 is a time of national pride, joy and reflection. For others, it’s the perfect opportunity to reminisce about a glorious past, about Nkrumah’s Ghana and his vision for Africa perhaps, but for most, it’s the perfect opportunity to hope for a better future. Through the ups and downs, one thing has remained stagnant in Ghanas history, and that’s it’s love and affiliation with a certain Kente Cloth. A Cloth firmly etched in place as Africa’s most widely known cloth produced in Africa, we can boldly say that handwoven Kente and its love affair with Ghana go together like rice rice and stew. And who can protest this acclamation?

This cloth undoubtedly serves as a powerful yet symbolic reference for national identity because for those in the diaspora [especially], all that’s needed, is a touch of kente cloth to showcase pride, adoration and affiliation with mother Ghana.

The wearing of Kente has become a statement, a political fashion statement if you will; one that says black and proud, one that says unapologetically Africa… And all, without uttering a single word. Such is the power of Kente, a cloth amongst cloths, a stand alone fabric-garment which must be preserved through patriotism of our home grown textiles industry. Because handwoven Kente is the only Kente that is assuredly made in Ghana unlike that of its printed [fake] counterpart often mass printed in Asia and elsewhere. So this Ghana independence day, buy handwoven Kente over printed Kente to preserve an indigenous craft and industry because if we are to truly buy made in Ghana goods, handwoven Kente is a great place to start. Shop yours at www.kentekingdom.com

Credits and sources:

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5 reasons why authentic Kente is better than Kente print

Kente is a superior cloth in many ways. The demand for Kente wether print or woven, surpasses all cloths in Africa. Such is the reason why Kente has accrued global recognition and is now the most widely known cloth produced on, and from the continent. But let’s be honest, we all know handwoven Kente is the real deal whilst Kente prints are a fake and inferior replica of the cloth. Here are 5 top reasons why authentic Kente is better than Kente Print.

1. Quality - You only have to feel the texture of handwoven Kente to know it’s better quality than Kente prints. It’s woven with the highest quality silks, high grade cotton and polyester. But Kente prints are flimsy cloths made from cheap low grade cotton massed produced in textile factories.

2. Durable - It lasts longer. So long, its passed down from generation to generation. This makes authentic Kente both an asset and a great fashion investment.

3. Genuine - Needless to say, genuine design is always better than its fake counterpart, and the same applies to Kente cloth.

4. Handmade and Unique - Handwoven cloth is always unique because each piece, no matter how similar, differs in colour, shade and dimensions. Although its takes as little longer to make, the sheer time and labour speaks to its meticulous design, uniqueness and quality. What more could one want?

5. Luxury and Exclusive - No two pieces are the same so you’re guaranteed a cloth exclusive to you. Handwoven Kente is the epitome of Ghana’s high end luxury fashion. There aren’t many cloths that offer an authentic royal experience so choose woven Kente over print everyday, and every time.

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Traditional weddings: how to pick your kente cloth design for maximum impact

With many colours and designs to choose from, how do you pick the right Kente Cloth for your wedding garment, or style of choice?

Trawling through the likes of BellaNaija, Asoebibella, Pinterest and other social media pages can make it difficult to pick the right style for your custom made Kente Cloth. Spoilt for choice, overwhelmed and sometimes outright daunting, you know full well, that making the wrong decision will have you on the latest edition of what I ordered versus what I got - so what do you do? We know that not all cloth types work well with all fashion designs spotted online. More often than not, many do not understand what goes into the look and feel of their chosen garment design which is pre-determined by the process of cloth construction. The use of yarn in the making of cloth and its impact on fabric behaviour, usability, and garment design as a whole, is something seldom talked about. So today, the team at Kente Kingdom will talk you through cloth production, kente design, function and the processes to consider so you can commission the right Kente for maximum style impact, and minimal stress.

1. Cloth house - picking a reliable and trust worthy Kente cloth house like Kente Kingdom is the first and most important decision you’ll make to avoid stress and disappointment. If you’re going for a traditional look on your big day, the focus should be on the cloth so don’t compromise on quality and design. Pick a cloth house that can deliver but most importantly, have a budget that matches your expectations to avoid disappointment.

2. Cloth design and specification - If the emphasis is on cultural display, it’s imperative to choose a design that explores traditional, cultural and historical elements within your custom made cloth. For many, the traditional engagement or African wedding ceremony is the perfect opportunity to showcase their proud heritage and cultural display so don’t just pick any Kente design. Think about your roots, your family lineage or the story behind your union, and how this can be incorporated in to your custom made cloth. If that’s your thing, our consultation service will give you the opportunity to design and commission a cloth that’s truly unique, meaningful and sentimental to you and your spouse-to-be. We’ll walk you through colours, patterns, symbolism and cultural representation so you can explore hidden messaging within your cloth because at Kente Kingdom, we believe only in doing so, can you truly select a cloth that’s impactful and fit for purpose for your big day. If you wish to wear your custom made Kente as a traditional cloth garment, then allow the cloth to do the talking and go for a bold, colourful and vibrant cloth, full of patterns and design. However if the focus is on the ‘garment style’, you may wish to opt for a plainly woven Kente cloth or a combination set, so you can adorn with embellishments of beads, sequence or embroidery for extra style impact. If you add embellishments to patterned cloth, the Kente designs and traditional symbolisms are often lost so pick your focal point and drip in confidence.
   

3. Yarn selection and weave structure - It’s important to understand that the yarns [threads] used in the construction of your kente cloth pre-determines the fibre behaviour, fabric use and functionality where garment style is concerned. The characteristics of the fabric be it soft, silky, floppy, or a more rigid and structure fabric, is directly related to the choice of yarns used during the cloth construction process alongside your chosen weave structure or kente design. It is therefore important to select a garment style suitable for your cloth type which is based on cloth behaviour, feel and texture. If you have chosen to sew your Kente Cloth into a fabulous piece of illustrative art such as kaba and slit, or as a dress for example, then handwoven Kente is a the perfect choice where corsetry is involved. This is due to its ridgid and structured nature because the firmness of the fabric makes it a great choice when creating wearable art where firmness in the garment is required. If you simply want to manipulate the cloth in a way that holds firmly in reflection of your garment style, then handwoven Kente is also a great choice. However if you opt for a long and flowing style, you may need to pair your handwoven Kente with a softer fabric for suitability and maximum impact.

4. Creative process - No matter which cloth house you go with, alway opt for a consultation service if it’s available. When pre-ordering your custom-made Kente for your traditional engagement or African wedding, we offer an optional consultation service in order to aid our clients in their cloth selection and design processes. At Kente Kingdom, we believe you should treat the acquisition of your custom made wedding cloth with as much value as you would when buying your white wedding dress or suit. Just like dress fitting appointments, its also important to be in regular contact with your cloth house so you can exhaust all creative avenues before production begins. This is the only way to ensure you have chosen a design suitable for end use and function. Most importantly, place your orders nice and early, be involved in the creative process and don’t be afraid to ask questions because when you understand your cloth or hidden meaning behind your design, this can influence your styling decisions too. You may decide to wear your Kente in a traditional toga-like manner without cutting it so you can preserve it in its original state, and pass it down to the next generation [for example]. Optionally, you may choose to commission a Kente combination set so you can explore the latest fashion trends in vogue. Lastly, honour your scheduled design meetings and appointments to ensure your vision is accurately executed and brought to life.

1. Functionality and end use - have an idea of your cloth functionality and end use. One should have a vague idea of what you want to do with the cloth wether you want to style it traditionally, or sew it into an illustrative piece of fashionable art. Depending on what you want to do with the cloth, the choice of yarns used during the production process will decide if the cloth structure, texture and functionality is suitable for your chosen wedding garment. Be it plain, sequenced, beaded or embroidered, the ‘effectiveness’ of your final wedding garment is highly hinged upon the suitability of the cloth in the first place. Make sure you select a cloth and design that works for your style to avoid disappointment And to aid you in your decision making, here are Kente Kingdom’s top style picks this 2022. But first, order your handwoven wedding Kente here

Credits and sources: Hazel Photography, Focus n Blur, Inspired Images, Vince O.K Photography, Maxwell Jennings Photography, John Sekyere Photography

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Love brewed in an African pot: Rare moments seniors displayed PDA whilst clothed in African Kente cloth

It’s the month of love and if you’ve ever grown up in an African home, you know It’s a rare sight to witness public display of affection of ANY sort, especially from the older generation (LOL). So at Kente Kingdom, we thought we’d shine a light on rare moments seniors led the way in open display of affection, whilst wearing good old Kente Cloth. And whilst we’re at it, here’s a compilation of famous African love quotes to inspire your valentines day celebrations.

“Love is like a cough, you cannot hold it back”.

“Love never gets lost, it’s only kept”.

“Love, like rain does not choose the grass on which it falls”.

“One who loves you, loves you with dirt”.

“If Love is a sickness, patience is the remedy”.

“If a woman doesn’t love you, she calls you brother”.

“Love is like a baby, it needs to be treated tenderly”.

“He who does not feel jealousy is not in love”.

Can you think of more African love quotes? Let us know on social media pages.

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Baby Edition: 10 times kids schooled us on traditional kente styling

By popular demand, we bring you the baby edition of ‘10 times kids schooled us on traditional Kente styling.’

Credits and Sources: Obe Images, CliqKofi Photography, Nii Studios, Fashion Ghana, SarBoat MMXX, Integrale Studios, Stepford GH, Solmac Studios

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Child's Play: 8 times kids schooled us on traditional Kente styling

We all love a bit of Kente styling because there are just so many ways one can style a traditional Kente look but when when kids do it, you know we’ve reached level 100. Here are 8 times kids schooled us on how to wear traditional Kente Cloth.

Credits and Sources: Fashion Ghana, Intergrale Studios, 50 Pesewas Photography, Qwabz Pixels, Nana Ama McBrown

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Designer Lookout: Show-stopping designer pieces inspired by kente cloth

Shop authentic handwoven Kente Cloth at www.kentekingdom.com

Credits: Turquoise Haute Couture, Nwentomagh, Velma Accessories, Nynyrke, Afro Inspired Shop.

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Care Instructions: How to take care of your Handwoven Kente Cloth

When it comes to handwoven Kente Cloth, one seldom hears about the care instructions that should accompany such delicately handwoven fabrics. Growing up, we heard the elders say Kente should not be treated like ordinary cloth. It was not to be washed often because in doing so, one would run the risk of reduced quality, shrinkage and a reduced lifespan of the cloth. The generations ahead preferred to air dry their Kente, occasionally choosing to hand wash when push came to shove. That was how handwoven Kente was maintained and in some cases, continues to date. However this idea can be quite difficult for those of us so accustomed to throwing everything into the washing machine - directed by care labels and washing instructions. One cannot benefit from this privilege when you decide to invest in handwoven cloth, be it Kente or any other cloth for that matter. There are no wash labels or care instructions so what do you do in this case? How do you handle, treat or maintain your newly acquired Kente Cloth, once the traditional wedding day is over?

Firstly, one can only give care instructions when they are aware of the choice of yarns or combination of threads used in the construction of said Kente in the first place. The fibre behaviour of yarns have a direct correlation on the behaviour and function of a cloth, be it soft and silky, or coarse and rigid. Unfortunately many weavers are not privy to such information and often select yarns based on colour, availability, thickness, texture, design and general aesthetics. Where new Kente design are churned out by the droves, care instructions are often lost to the end user as the composition of each Kente differs from cloth to cloth. Unaware of the specific yarns and fibres used in the construction of your Kente cloth makes it difficult to provide tailored advice on care instructions. So, if you’re unsure about what’s in your handwoven Kente Cloth, here are some guidelines for durability and longevity:

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Handwash - Delicately hand washing your Kente Cloth remains one of the oldest method of cloth preservation. Some washing powder and warm water goes a long way in keeping your cloth looking clean and fresh which also contributes to cloth durability. Add a dash of fabric conditioner as this may help to protect against colour fading whilst leaving your cloth soft to touch, and freshly scented. Fabric conditioner also contributes to smoother fibres which can make your Kente easier to iron and help protect from bobbling in the long run.

Dry cleaning - If you’re not too confident about hand washing Kente cloth at home, or you just want to be on the safer side, a trip to the dry cleaners is always recommended. Let the professionals take care of it because unlike hand washing, the method of dry cleaning uses solvents to remove soils and stains. This helps to dissolve grease and oils in a way water does not. Kente is typically woven using yarns such as cotton, silk, wool, polyester or rayon so if your Kente is woven with natural fibres like wool and silk, then dry cleaning may be your best option. By choosing dry cleaning, you may be able to avoid the risk of cloth shrinkage, distortion and loss of colour as may be the case when washed in water. This, may offer an insight as to why some elders prefer to abstain from washing their handwoven Kente altogether, often preferring to air dry their cloth instead.

Iron with low to medium heat - Always iron with low to medium heat to avoid destroying your handwoven Kente Cloth. If you need to turn up the heat, iron your cloth inside out and always start by testing out a small patch first. Irons work better than steamers when it comes to bulkier, stiffer fabrics like Kente. While steamers can be used, irons are often preferred because of its ability to provide a clean and crisp finishing. Ironing your Kente Cloth can also be more efficient due to fibre durability and thickness of weave structure.

Steam - Steaming has its perks too because you can avoid direct heat and minimise risk of burning your Kente Cloth when you choose the steaming method. It’s particularly great if you’re unsure about the fibre composition of your brand new Kente Cloth because steamers only use steam to relax materials and remove creases. This is particularly important as new Kente designs are often woven using synthetic fibres such as polyester, rayon and lurex yarns which are known to burn easily when in direct contact with hot metal plates of an iron.

Handle with care - Lastly, remember that genuine Kente Cloth is delicately handwoven here at Kente Kingdom, so always handle with care. Try any of these methods and let us know which one works best for you. .

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Disclaimer: The contents of this article are guidelines and are provided for general information purposes only. We do not take any responsibility for personal interpretation and/ or actions that may arise as a result of information disclosed in this blog article.

Mens Style: Top 10 Kente Cloth Designs for men

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Duku Fabulous: 6 Times handwoven Kente was stylishly wrapped

Kicking the year off with some style inspiration, here are 6 times handwoven Kente was stylishly wrapped.

Sources and Credits: Nana Sakra Photography, SOP Photography, Mrs Dumelo, Fashion Ghana, Turbanista Paris

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2022: Our year of infinite possibilities…

Welcome to 2022, our year of infinite possibilities. Yes you read that right, because at Kente Kingdom we’ve dubbed this new year, the year of infinite opportunities and possibilities…And just in case you’re wondering, here’s why?

Well, we’ve decided that 2022 will be our year to thrive, shine and innovate. In case you thought we were just another Kente cloth house, we’re here to demonstrate that Kente Kingdom is a brand with a difference. Without giving too much away, Kente Kingdom has been a passion project over 10 years in the making. This, is a lifelong project about culture and heritage wrapped in the delicate cloth of 21st century fashion and textiles.

Ultimately, the focal point is knowledge led design so follow us, as we unravel the elemental themes that sum up Ghanaian Kente. We promise to bring you creative concepts that don’t just elevate the culture, but pushes the boundaries of luxury Ghanaian fashion as you’ve come to know it. Beyond the norms of traditional fashion, textiles and design, we’re here to explore creative possibilities wherever it may lead us. So now that we understand our God given assignment, let the creativity begin...

Oh, and before we forget… Happy new year family! From the team at Kente Kingdom.

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18 Stunning Kente illustrations to inspire your next cloth

Credits: Penil Enchill, Godwin Atelier.

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Picture Perfect: Top 10 Kente Styles for your 'Ankoo' wedding

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Woven Kente is better than printed Kente. Here's why?

By now, you know we’re a little obsessed with Kente Cloth here at Kente Kingdom. In the past we’ve touched on topics such as the significance of Kente colours, Kente designs, names and so much more but today, let’s talk about something a little more significant. Let’s talk print verses woven, and why handwoven Kente is always better than Kente print. Most importantly, let’s talk about the impact of printed Kente on the indigenous weavers, and Ghana’s textile industry as a whole.

We know we’re biased when we say woven Kente is better than printed Kente but before you argue, hear us out. At Kente Kingdom, we will always patronise authentic Kente over its printed version for the simple reason that Kente prints are fake, and are therefore inferior to the real thing. Who wants Kente imitation when you can have the real thing? Who wants fake Kente when you can have genuine handwoven Kente handcrafted by an indigenous weaver in Ghana? Over the years we’ve watched Kente garnish a level of love and adoration that transcends far beyond the borders of Ghana. We’ve witnessed Kente patterns and designs imitated and reprinted on everything from coffee mugs, coasters to tissue boxes. We’ve even seen Kente designs being used on toilet roll holders and dog collars - we’ll just leave that there….

With Kente being the most widely known cloth produced in Africa, this has come at a heavy price both to the weavers and the nation as whole. The evolution of Kente has gone on a journey as a cloth strictly reserved for royal consumption, to that of such liberal use it almost boarders profanity - But who is to blame? When looking critically at the situation, I believe the devalue of Kente as a sacred cloth began with the Pan-African movement [Panafest] of the early 90s, when there was a sudden surge, adoration and demand for all things Kente. Growing up in Ghana, I witnessed Kente designs printed on anything and everything just to attract a sale. There seemed to be little regard for the long term commercialisation of our culture, our heritage, a royal cloth. Today the devalue and mundane use of this sacred cloth is obvious for all to see, but the devastating impact on the weaving industry is seldom talked about. As with many of our African prints of today, the majority are made [printed] off the shores of Africa. Even when home-grown textile production houses create and print new designs, the new cloths are immediately copied on release, and within a matter of weeks, we have’ fake’ imitation African prints all over our markets. The situation is so severe that i’m told well over 50% of the prints on the market today are fake even if you buy it directly in an African market.

The issue of textiles forgery is decades old and is one which has obviously not escaped Kente cloth. The problem is, these prints are churned out in droves, mass produced in places like China, Turkey, etc predestined for the shores of African and beyond. Naturally, the economic benefits of mass consumption which would have otherwise gone to Africa suddenly finds itself elsewhere. This is the case for Ghana’s world famous Kente cloth.

For every piece of authentic handwoven Kente you buy, you not only buy from Ghana, consequently you trade with Ghana too. Naturally the economic benefits goes directly to the weaver [and subsequently to the nation] which then contributes to the growth and development of Ghana’s homegrown textiles industry. Unlike that of Kente prints, the unassuming ‘print lover’ continues to patronise imitation over genuine Kente, consequently diverting trade elsewhere because for every piece of authentic Kente made by, an indigenous weaver gets paid for their time, labour, creativity and craftsmanship unlike that of Kente prints mass produced by machines in a foreign land. The more we favour printed Kente over genuine Kente Cloth, the more we kill an already struggling industry. We help divert funds away from Africa because we are no longer buying ‘African’ let alone buying from Africa. In other words, when Ghana is robbed of the economic royalties of Kente consumption, the weavers no longer become economic beneficiaries of their craftsmanship and intellectual design. Their designs are ‘stolen’, copied and reprinted which means the weaver is denied recognition for their intellectual property. Furthermore, the nation no longer benefit monetarily from Kente consumption irrespective of international demand. So what’s the solution? In my humble opinion, the solution is to divert the financial and economic benefits of Kente demand [both production and consumption] back to the rightful owners. So the next time you consider buying Kente Cloth, consider authentic Kente because you are not only helping to sustain an ancient African industry, you create job opportunities for the next generation of weavers. You bring the money home to the weavers who reap the financial benefits for their craftsmanship.

This is one of the most simplest ways to contribute to aid not trade agenda in Africa because when we patronize our very own [industries], we not only contribute to the black-owned economy, we contribute to the economic growth of an industry - fashion & textiles. When achieved on a larger scale, we contribute to the economic growth and development of communities, industries, individual nations and the continent as a whole. So buy handwoven Kente because when you choose woven Kente over print, in the end, you have a better chance of buying black-owned, you have a better chance of buying from the rightful source - and that, is the bigger picture. Shop handwoven Kente here, or commission your custom made cloth at COMMISSIONED.

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Virgil Abloh: Kente styling and other iconic designs

This week, we learnt of the sudden and tragic passing of Virgil Abloh, one of Ghana’s very own top international designers. In the wake of his passing, we take a look back at some of his iconic designs which earned him recognition, set him apart and cemented his place as a trailblazer in the fashion world.

In his very own words, Abloh once said, ‘‘In my mind, I haven’t done any work yet. I’ve just made a case for why my point of view is valid’’. These words offer a glimpse into the potential of a groundbreaking designer who was just getting started. Undoubtedly, there was more to come from Virgil and evidently, he has left his mark. But one thing is for sure, he will forever be an inspiration to many. Rest in peace.

Credits: Virgil Abloh, Off White, Louis Vuitton, Ikea, John Boyega:

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Popular Kente designs and their meanings

DONO WA

Symbolic Reference: A traditional armpit drum. A type of talking drum with strings connecting both ends.

NTATA

Symbolic Reference: Named after a two-edged sword.

NKYIMKYIM

Symbolic Reference: Literally translates as Zigzag. Meaning life is not a straight path.

OHENE ANEWA

Symbolic Reference: The Kings eye. Meaning the king sees everything. Nothing escapes the king, the king sees all.

DAMEDAME (CHEQUERED)

Symbolic Reference: This symbol represents intelligence, ingenuity and strategy. A symbolic reference to a traditional Ghanaian game.

AFA

Symbolic Reference: Literally translates as I have taken it. This name derives from a blacksmiths bellows. A symbolic expression of a fork without a center teeth, a device for melting gold or iron.

KWADUM ASA

Symbolic Reference: Gun power container. An Empty gun powder keg. From the days of colonial rule when gun powder was introduced to Ghana.

FATENE

Symbolic Reference: This pattern is derived from the ‘Fa Hia Kotwere Agyeman’ design, meaning lean on [king] Agyeman, Prempeh II.

APREMUO OR APREMOO

Symbolic Reference: Literally translates as lightning or thunder.

TROM NWOMA

Symbolic Reference: Draughts , a type of smooth weave

BABADUA

Symbolic Reference: This pattern is considered to be the 1st Kente design. Acknowledged to be among sacred trees in the Ashanti forest, this design takes its name from a segmented bamboo-like cane.

FA HIA KOTWERE AGYEMAN (LEAN ON AGYEMAN)

Symbolic Reference: Meaning to lean on Agyeman. This symbol literally means to seek help from [king] Agyeman, because Agyeman (Prempeh II, 1935 - 1970) would help solve your problems. Symbolizes hope, faith, sharing and benevolence.

NKYEMFRE NHYEHYEHOO

Symbolic Reference: Translates as a broken pot pieced together. A reference to one who can solve or handle difficult situations More recently known as Nkrumah’s Pencil.

ACHIMOTA NSAFOA

Symbolic Reference: Literally translates as Achimota keys.

NTABON

Symbolic Reference: The name Ntabon refers to a weaving sword

Now that you’re familiar with popular Kente patterns, names and meanings, consider commissioning your Kente Cloth with thought, a cloth only you can decode. Pre-order your very own handwoven Kente that’s riddled with hidden meaning, coded with sentimental symbolism - a cloth that’s personal to you or the recipient. Shop ready-to-wear Kente here or check out our Cloth Production and Atelier Service COMMISSIONED to pre-order your custom made Cloth. Follow us on our socials

Follow us on our socials:

Facebook: @OfficialKenteKingdom

Instagram: @OfficialKenteKingdom

Twitter: @KenteKingdom

Purchase authentic Kente here at www.kentekingdom.com